Open your cans of pinto beans over a bowl to catch the starchy liquid. Do not throw this out! This “liquid gold” is a top-notch professional secret for achieving a velvety texture. Set aside at least half a cup to use later for thinning the mash. Rinse the beans quickly to remove any excess canning salt so you have total control over the seasoning.
Heat the oil or lard in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the finely diced white onion and cook until the edges turn a deep golden brown. Stir in the minced garlic for the final minute.
Stir the cumin, chili powder, and sea salt into the hot oil and onions. Let them sizzle for about thirty seconds to “bloom” the spices. This heat exposure releases the natural oils within the dried herbs, intensifying their earthy scent.
Add the drained pinto beans to the skillet. Toss them in the spiced oil and let them fry undisturbed for three minutes. You want to see some of the bean skins blister and brown against the hot pan.
Pour in half of your reserved bean liquid and grab a potato masher or a sturdy spoon. Crush the beans directly in the skillet until you reach your desired consistency.
If the mixture looks too stiff, stir in the rest of the reserved liquid until the beans are creamy and “scoopable.” Turn off the heat and fold in half of the crumbled cotija cheese. The residual heat will soften the cheese, adding a salty richness. Garnish with fresh cilantro and tomatoes before serving hot as a side dish or a hearty dip.
